Silk generally refers to silk, including mulberry silk, tussah silk, castor silk, cassava silk, etc., known as "fiber Queen".
The quality of silk is usually considered by the spinner from the following aspects:
1. Mm number
The gram weight per square meter (g / m2) is the main unit of measurement of textile material. In silk, it is often expressed in M / m. Mm is the unit of weight. In short, it is mm. Don't misunderstand it into MM!
1 mm = 4.3056 g / m2
However, the number of MM is not necessarily in direct proportion to the quality of silk.
The common types of silk fabrics are 8, 12, 16, 19 and 30 mm. In other words, the larger the number is, the heavier the fabric is. The price of silk fabrics follows the weight, so the larger the number is, the higher the price will be.
2. Silk content
Silk, silk. The latter percentage indicates the amount of silk. For example, silk100% is pure silk products
3. Conventional index
Defects, color fastness, etc.
Plain crepe satin
Main types of silk fabrics
Plain crepe satin: it belongs to the conventional silk fabric. The bright satin is very noble, smooth and well-organized. This is the silk fabric in many people's mind. The material used for cheongsam has smooth luster and bright color like pearls!
This kind of fabric feels very good when it is held in hand. Therefore, the satisfaction of buyers for satin clothes is usually very high. This kind of fabric is easy to wrinkle, so after ironing, it is smooth, and then it can show its luster perfectly. Satin is a very noble fabric. In fact, some designs with this kind of fabric are really beautiful, noble and very famous. Plain crepe satin is suitable for dress, scarf, shirt, etc.
stretch satin
Main types of silk fabrics
Similar to plain crepe satin is elastic satin. Compared with plain crepe satin, it has certain elasticity, not easy to wrinkle and easy to handle, which makes up for the shortcomings of pure silk. Suitable for scarves, cheongsam, etc. Elastic crepe satin: 90% - 95% mulberry silk, 5% - 10% spandex, is a kind of interwoven fabric.
It is characterized by good elasticity, comfort, relatively small shrinkage and unique style. This is not 100% pure silk. With other ingredients, the fabric has elasticity and good drapability. It depends on the proportion of silk. The larger the proportion of silk is, the more silk feels and the more beautiful the luster is.
Crepe de Chine
Main types of silk fabrics
Crepe de Chine: it is a kind of satin made of mulberry silk. It is characterized by two-way fine wrinkles on the silk surface, so it is called crepe. It is an important variety in China's silk production and export, accounting for 15% and 10% of the total silk production and export.
Crepe de chine is popular because of its many characteristics, poor quality and wide use. Suitable for shirts, skirts, etc.
Electric spinning
Main types of silk fabrics
Electric spinning is a kind of raw silk fabric, which is made of plain weave. It gets its name because it uses factory silk and electric silk looms instead of silk and wood. Such as: Hangzhou Textile (produced in Hangzhou). Shaoxing textile (produced in Shaoxing), Huzhou textile (produced in Huzhou), etc. The electric textile material is compact, fine and clean, with soft handle, soft luster and smooth and comfortable wearing.
The heavy ones are mainly used for summer shirts, skirts and children's clothing fabrics; the medium ones can be used for clothing lining; the light ones can be used for petticoats, headscarves, etc. It's a high-grade fabric. Thin electrospun can be used as lining of wool, cashmere coat, silk dress, etc., and slightly thicker one can be used as shirt, dress, etc
Taffeta
Main types of silk fabrics
Taffeta: a silk fabric made of ripe silk. Good luster, delicate and crisp, feel like umbrella cloth, especially easy to wrinkle, easy to form permanent creases, so it is not suitable to fold and heavy press, commonly used drum packaging. There are three kinds of taffeta, including plain taffeta, striped taffeta and floral taffeta. They are famous traditional varieties in China and are also the special products of Suzhou and Hangzhou.
In particular, the taffeta produced by Suzhou Soochow silk weaving factory is collectively referred to as "Tawang". Suitable for umbrella, skirt, shirt. It's really neat before going into the water, but it's terrible after going into the water. It is not suitable for beginners of silk. It is not a common trouble to take care of it. Taffeta production process is complex, production is not much, only limited supply, so it is more valuable.
Heavy crepe
Main types of silk fabrics
Heavy crepe: a kind of heavy silk fabric with multiple warp and weft yarn combination and enhanced weft twisting. Its style is similar to that of crepe de Chine, but it is much richer than crepe de Chine. It has at least four times the thickness of the common crepe 02, and the thickened crepe fabric of mulberry silk.
Heavy, here read as "Chong", which means repetition and coincidence. In technology, it is the weaving of multiple strands of twisted yarn.
Silk crepe
Main types of silk fabrics
Crepe along: chemical fiber silk like fabric, the fabric structure adopts plain weave change, especially shuttle weaving, which adapts to the high twist of silk. Under the condition of strong twist of warp and weft in the front, the warp and weft are twisted after dyeing and finishing shrinkage, the crepe on the fabric surface is obvious, the finished product is full of natural expansion, the interweaving points are firm, not easy to loosen and tear, and the fabric surface has holes, such as yarn hemp style Besides the advantages of soft, smooth, breathable and easy to wash, it has stronger comfort and better drapability
The special feature of the fabric is printing and embroidery patterns, which can be used for women of different ages to make clothes. Later, because of the rise of chiffon, georgette and Zou series, they were abandoned by people.
Georges
Main types of silk fabrics
Georgette (gauze): Georgette is also called Georgette or Georgette, and its name comes from French (Georgette). It is very similar to chiffon, I mean chemical fiber chiffon. The difference between silk chiffon and georgette can be distinguished at a glance. It is light and transparent, soft and elastic,
Mulberry Satin: silk fabrics in the conventional fabric, satin texture clear, antique, very noble.
Warp knitting
Main types of silk fabrics
Warp knitting: soft, delicate, soft and comfortable. It is a kind of new special fabric with high technology and high quality. This is the knitted silk. This kind of fabric is very expensive, and now many of them are not made of 100% pure silk, but made of pure silk mixed with other fabrics.
Silk discrimination
Observe the gloss. The luster of silk fabrics is soft and even, bright but not dazzling. The luster of rayon fabric is bright, but not soft. Although the luster of polyester filament is even, there is flash or bright filament. The luster of nylon silk fabric is poor, as if coated with a layer of wax. Feel it. When touching silk fabrics, there is a handle feeling, but other chemical fiber products do not have this feeling.
Rayon fabric is smooth and soft, but not crisp. Cotton and silk fabrics don't feel soft. Examine the creases. When the hand pinches the silk fabric tightly, it has good elasticity and no crease. Rayon fabrics have obvious creases after being pinched by hand, and the creases are difficult to recover. Although nylon silk fabric has creases, it can also slowly recover to its original state, so it must not be confused by its false appearance.
Test fiber tension. Take out a few fibers from the edge of the fabric and wet it with the tongue. If it is easy to break at the wetting point, it is rayon, otherwise it is silk fabric. Listen to the frictions. Because the surface of silk is protected by sericin, the dry silk fabric will make a sound when rubbing with each other, so it is called "Silk ringing" or "Silk ringing", while other chemical fiber products have no sound.
The best way to deal with the authenticity is to burn, not to draw, but to burn a small piece, because in silk blending, one warp and one weft is real silk, not necessarily 100% real silk. Silk flame retardant, there will be no open fire, there is a smell, burning after twisting with hands, powder. No, it can't, but it can be tested with 84 silk.
Maintenance of silk clothes
Silk fabrics are favored by the popularity of Chinese style clothing, and silk clothing is very useful in summer because of its soft and smooth handle and good performance of moisture absorption and air permeability. However, in order to make it bright, fresh and durable, it is necessary to maintain it properly
1. When washing, it is best to use soft water, and the temperature is 35-40 ℃.
2. Alkali has destructive effect on silk fiber, so neutral detergent or wool detergent should be used.
3. Salt is also destructive to silk, silk clothing should be changed frequently and washed frequently, so as to avoid macular and affect the wearing life.
4. When washing, it is not suitable to stir or rub with force, but to rub gently.
5. After washing, hang it in a cool and ventilated place to dry. It is not suitable to be exposed to the sun, so as to avoid the fiber embrittlement and fading caused by ultraviolet radiation in the sun.
6. When drying to 80%, cover the silk surface with white cloth and iron (the temperature should not be too high, always uniform, do not use steam), do not spray water, otherwise it will cause water stains and affect the beauty.
7. When collecting, place camphor balls wrapped in paper to avoid moths. Each piece of clothing should be separated by a layer of paper or non-woven fabric. White silk should be wrapped in blue paper. Do not use white paper or white cloth to avoid yellowing.
Five ways to deal with moldy clothing
1. Cotton clothes mildew, can use a few green bean sprouts, in the mildew place repeatedly rub, and then rinse with water, mildew will be removed.
2. If there are mildew spots on the silk clothes, soak the silk in water and brush it with a brush. If there are many and heavy mildew spots, apply 5% alcohol solution to the places with mildew spots and scrub them repeatedly for several times, then the mildew spots can be removed quickly.
3. Mildew on chemical fiber clothes can be washed with a brush dipped in some thick soapy water, and then washed with warm water, and the mildew can be removed.